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Edinburgh
Edinburgh is the second-largest city in Scotland and its capital city.
It is situated on the east coast of Scotland's central lowlands on the
south shore of the Firth of Forth and in the unitary local authority of
City of Edinburgh. It has been the capital of Scotland since 1437 and is
the seat of the country's devolved government. The city was one of the
major centres of the enlightenment, led by the University of Edinburgh.
The Old Town and New Town districts of Edinburgh were listed as a UNESCO
World Heritage Site in 1995. In the census of 2001, Edinburgh had a
total resident population of 448,624.
Edinburgh is well known for the annual Edinburgh Festival, the largest
performing arts festival in the world, and for the Hogmanay street
party. At the time of the art festivals the population of the city
doubles. The city is one of the world's major tourist destinations,
attracting roughly 13 million visitors a year.
Origins of "Edinburgh"
The origin of the city's name is understood to come from the Brythonic
Din Eidyn (Fort of Eidyn) from the time when it was a Gododdin hillfort.
After it was besieged by the Bernician Angles the name changed to
Edin-burh, which some have argued derives from the Anglo-Saxon for
"Edwin's fort", possibly derived from the 7th century Northumbrian king
Edwin. However, since the name apparently predates King Edwin, this is
highly unlikely. The burgh element means "fortress" or "group of
buildings", i.e. a town or city and is akin to the German burg, Latin
parcus, Greek pyrgos etc. This word can be traced back to the Chaldean
perach meaning "growth", in the sense that a group of buildings is a
growth from the earth, and may be a borrowing.
"Din Eidyn" is Brythonic Celtic for "Dun Eidyn" meaning "Eidyn Town",
"Eidyn Dune", or "Eidyn Down(s)". A Celtic "Dun" was a hilltop fortress
town, and the suffix appears throughout Caesar's "Gallic Wars". The
Germanic equivalent is "Burgh"; for example, an "ice-berg" is literally
an "ice-mountain". The sense is identical: a hilltop fortified town.
Thus, the exact translation of "Din Eidyn" into the Germanic tongue of
the Angles is "Eidyn Burgh", or more simply, "Edinburgh". As with the
borrowing of "Brynaich" as "Bernicia", we see that the Angles adopted
the honorific pronoun "Eidyn", translating only the modifier "Din" into
their own tongue as "Bergh".
The first evidence of the existence of the town as a separate entity
from the fort lies in an early 12th century charter, generally thought
to date from 1124, by King David I granting land to the Church of the
Holy Rood of Edinburgh. This suggests that the town came into official
existence between 1018 (when King Malcolm II secured the Lothians from
the Northumbrians) and 1124.
The charter refers to the recipients (in Latin) as "Ecclisie Sancte
Crucis Edwinesburgensi". This could mean that those who drafted the
charter believed Edwin to be the original source of the name and decided
to derive the Latinisation from what they believed to be the ancient
name. It could also mean that at some point in the preceding 600 years
the name had altered to include a w. If the latter scenario was the case
then it was soon to change; by the 1170s King William the Lion was using
the name "Edenesburch" in a charter (again in Latin) confirming the 1124
grant of David I.
Documents from the 14th century show the name to have settled into its
current form; although other spellings ("Edynburgh" and "Edynburghe")
appear, these are simply spelling variants of the current name.
Other names
The city is affectionately nicknamed "Auld Reekie", Lowland Scots for
"Old Smoky".
Some have called Edinburgh the "Athens of the North" for a variety of
reasons. The earliest comparison between the two cities showed that they
had a similar topography, with the Old Town of Edinburgh performing a
similar role to the Acropolis. Both of them had flatter, fertile
agricultural land sloping down to a port several miles away. Although
this arrangement is common in Southern Europe, it is rare in Northern
Europe. The 18th century intellectual life, sometimes referred to as the
Scottish Enlightenment, was a key influence in gaining the name. Such
beacons as David Hume and Adam Smith shone during this period. Having
lost its political importance, some hoped that Edinburgh could gain a
similar civilising influence on London as Athens had on Rome. Also a
contributing factor was the later neoclassical architecture,
particularly that of William Henry Playfair, and the National Monument
(see below). One writer has said, facetiously, that the "Reykjavík of
the South" would be more appropriate!
Edinburgh has also been known as "Dunedin", deriving from the Scottish
Gaelic, Dùn Èideann. Dunedin, New Zealand, was originally called "New
Edinburgh" and is still nicknamed the "Edinburgh of the South".
The Scots poets Robert Burns and Robert Fergusson sometimes referred to
the city as "Edina" in their work. Ben Johnson described it as
"Britaine's other eye", and Sir Walter Scott referred to the City as
"yon Empress of the North".
Some Scots refer to the city affectionately and informally as "Embra".
The Centre
The historic centre of Edinburgh is divided into two by the broad green
swath of Princes Street Gardens. To the south the view is dominated by
Edinburgh Castle, perched atop an extinct volcanic crag, and the long
sweep of the Old Town trailing after it along the ridge. To the north
lies Princes Street and the New Town. The gardens were begun in 1816 on
marsh land which had once been a loch, the Nor' Loch.
Some 70 million years ago several volcanic vents in the area cooled and
solidified to form tough basalt volcanic plugs, then later a glacier
swept from west to east, exposing rocky crags to the west and leaving a
tail of material swept to the east. At the castle rock this tail formed
a narrow steep sided ridge, declining in height over a mile till it
meets general ground level at Holyrood. At the same time, the glacier
gouged out ground to each side, leaving the ravine of the Grassmarket
and Cowgate to the south, and the swampy valley of the Nor' Loch to the
north. To the immediate west of the castle lies the financial district
housing insurance and banking buildings. Probably the most eyecatching
building is the huge circular sandstone building that is the Edinburgh
International conference Centre.
This formed a natural fortress, and recent excavations at the castle
(described in Excavations within Edinburgh Castle by Stephen T. Driscoll
& Peter Yeoman, Society of Antiquaries of Scotland Monograph Series
no.12 1997) found material dating back to the Late Bronze Age, as long
ago as 850 BCE.
In the 1st century the Romans recorded the Votadini as a British tribe
in the area, and about 600 the poem Y Gododdin using the Brythonic form
of that name describes warriors feasting "in Eidin's great hall".
Old Town
The Old Town has preserved its medieval plan and many Reformation-era
buildings. One end is closed by the castle and the main artery The High
Street (or the Royal Mile) leads away from it; minor streets (called
closes or wynds) bud off the main spine in a herringbone pattern. Large
squares mark the location of markets or surround major public buildings
such as St Giles Cathedral and the Law Courts. Other notable places of
interest nearby include the Royal Museum of Scotland, Surgeons' Hall,
the Royal Festival Theatre, and the University of Edinburgh. The street
layout, typical of the old quarters of many northern European cities, is
made especially picturesque in Edinburgh, where the castle perches on
top of a rocky crag, the remnants of a dormant volcano, and the main
street runs down the crest of a ridge from it.
The topography for the city is known as "crag and tail" and was created
during the ice age when receding glaciers scored across the land pushing
soft soil aside but being split by harder crags of volcaninc rock. The
hilltop crag was the earliest part of the city to develop, becoming
fortified and eventually developing into the current Edinburgh Castle.
The rest of the city grew slowly down the tail of land from the Castle
Rock. This was an easily defended spot with marshland on the south and a
loch, the Nor Loch, on the north. Access up the main road to the
settlement therefore was restricted by means of various gates and a City
Wall (now mostly gone).
Due to the space restrictions imposed by the narrowness of the "tail"
the Old Town became home to some of the earliest "high rise" residential
buildings. Multi-story dwellings were the norm from the 1500s onwards.
During the 1700s the Old Town had a population of about 80,000
residents. However, in more modern times it had declined dramatically to
just 4,000 residents. There are currently approximately 20,000 residents
in the various parts of the Old Town. As the population was for a long
time reluctant to build outside the defensive wall, the need for housing
grew and hence the buildings became higher and higher. However, many of
these buildings were destroyed in the Great Fire of 1824. They were then
rebuilt on the original foundations. This led to changes in the ground
level and the creation of many passages and vaults under the Old Town.
On December 7, 2002, another major fire in the Old Town engulfed part of
the Cowgate. It destroyed the famous comedy club, The Gilded Balloon,
and much of the Informatics department of the University of Edinburgh,
including the comprehensive AI library.
New Town
The New Town was an 18th century solution to the problem of an
increasingly crowded Old Town. The city had remained incredibly compact,
confined to the ridge running down from the castle. In 1766 a
competition to design the New Town was won by James Craig, a 22-year old
architect. The plan that was built created a rigid, ordered grid, which
fitted well with enlightenment ideas of rationality. The principal
street was to be George Street, which follows the natural ridge to the
north of the Old Town. Either side of it are the other main streets of
Princes Street and Queen Street. Princes Street has since become the
main shopping street in Edinburgh, and few Georgian buildings survive on
it. Linking these streets were a series of perpendicular streets. At the
east and west ends are St. Andrew's Square and Charlotte Square
respectively. The latter was designed by Robert Adam and is often
considered one of the finest Georgian squares in Britain. Bute House,
the official residence of the First Minister of Scotland, is on the
north side of Charlotte Square.
Sitting in the valley between the Old and New Towns was the Nor' Loch,
which had been both the city's water supply and place for dumping
sewerage. By the 1820s it was drained. Some plans show that a canal was
intended, but Princes Street Gardens are what was created. Excess soil
from the construction of the buildings was dumped into the valley,
creating what is now The Mound. In the mid-19th century the National
Gallery of Scotland and Royal Scottish Academy Building were built on
The Mound, and tunnels to Waverley Station driven through it.
The New Town was so successful that it was extended greatly. The grid
pattern was not maintained, but rather a more picturesque layout was
created.
Leith
Leith is the port of Edinburgh. It still retains a separate identity
from Edinburgh, and it was a matter of great resentment when in 1920
Leith was merged into Edinburgh. Even today the parliamentary seat is
known as 'Edinburgh North and Leith'. With the redevelopment of Leith,
Edinburgh has gained the business of a number of cruise liner companies
who now provide cruises to Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Germany and the
Netherlands. Leith also boasts the Royal Yacht Britannia, berthed behind
the Ocean Terminal shopping centre.
Wikipedia.org
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