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Hotels in Siena
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History of Siena
Siena, like many other Tuscan hill towns, was first settled in the time
of the Etruscans (circa 900BC to 400BC) when it was inhabited by a tribe
called the Saina.
The Etruscans were an advanced people who changed the face of central
Italy through their use of irrigation to reclaim previously unfarmable
land, and their custom of building their settlements in heavily armoured
hill-forts. It has been argued that their Pagan society which practiced
matrilineal inheritance, and was devoted to their goddesses was one of
the reasons why Roman Goddesses such as Diana and, with the arrival of
Christianity, the Virgin Mary came to be of such importance to the
people of the Italian peninsula. If this is true, it suggests that the
Cult of the Virgin which is omnipresent in the fabric of Siena's ancient
stones has an origin which is older still.
What we can say for certain is that the Romans founded a town called
Saenna Julia on the site of a pre-existing Etruscan settlement, and from
this has grown modern Siena. Siena may then have been under the control
of invading Gaulish forces – who are known to have sacked Rome in 390
BC. Some archaeologists assert it was controlled for a period by a
Gaulish tribe called the Saenones.
The Roman origin accounts for the town’s emblem – a she-wolf suckling
the infants’ Romulus and Remus. According to legend, Siena was founded
by Senius, son of Remus, who was in turn the brother of Romulus, after
whom Rome was named. Statues and other artwork depicting a she-wolf
suckling the young twins Romulus and Remus can be seen all over the city
of Siena. Other etymologies derive the name from the Etruscan family
name "Saina", the Roman family name of the "Saenii", or the Latin word
"senex" ("old") or the derived form "seneo", "to be old".
Siena did not prosper under Roman rule. It was not sited near any major
roads and therefore missed out on the resulting opportunities for trade.
Its insular status meant that Christianity did not penetrate until the
Fourth Century AD, and it was not until the Lombards invaded Siena and
the surrounding territory that it knew prosperity. Their occupation and
the fact that the old Roman roads of Aurelia and the Cassia passed
through areas exposed to Byzantine raids, caused the roads between the
Lombards Northern possessions and Rome to be re-routed through Siena.
The inevitable consequence of this was that Siena prospered as a trading
post, and the constant streams of pilgrims passing to and from Rome were
to prove a valuable source of income in the centuries to come.
The oldest aristocratic families in Siena date their line to the
Lombards surrender in 774 to Charlemagne. At this point the city was
inundated with a swarm of Frankish overseers who married into the
existing Sienese nobility, and left a legacy that can be seen in the
abbeys they founded throughout Sienese territory. Feudal power waned
however, and by the death of Countess Matilda in 1115 the Mark of Tuscia
which had been under the control of her family – the Canossa – broke up
into several autonomous regions.
Siena prospered under the new arrangements, becoming a major centre of
money lending and an important player in the wool trade. It was governed
at first directly by its Bishop, but episcopal power declined during the
1100s. The bishop was forced to concede a greater say in the running of
the city to the nobility in exchange for their help during a territorial
dispute with Arezzo, and this started a process which culminated in 1167
when the commune of Siena declared its independence from episcopal
control. By 1179, it had a written constitution.
This period was also crucial in shaping the Siena we know today. It was
during the 1100s that the majority of the construction of the Duomo,
Siena’s cathederal, was completed. It was also during this period that
the Piazza del Campo, now regarded as one of the most beautiful civic
spaces in Europe, grew in importance as the centre of secular life. New
streets were constructed leading to it and it served as the site of the
market, and the location of many sporting events (perhaps better thought
of as riots, in the fashion of the Florentine football matches that are
still practised to this day). A wall was constructed in 1194 at the
current site of the Palazzo Pubblico to stop soil erosion, an indication
of how important the area was becoming as a civic space.
In the early 12th century, when a self-governing commune replaced the
earlier aristocratic government. The consuls who governed the republic
slowly became more inclusive of the poblani, or common people, and the
Commune increased its territory as the surrounding feudal nobles in
their fortified castles submitted to the urban power. Siena's republic,
struggling internally between nobles and the popular party, usually
worked in political opposition to its great rival, Florence, and was in
the 13th century predominantly Ghibelline in opposition to Florence's
Guelph position (the backdrop for Dante's Commedia).
On September 4, 1260 The Sieneses Ghibellines, supported by the forces
of King Manfred of Sicily, defeated the Florentine Guelphs at
Montaperti. The Sienese faced an overwhelming Florentine army. Prior to
the battle, the entire city was dedicated to the Virgin Mary and
entrusted to her possession – something which has been renewed several
times since, most recently in 1944 to guard the city from the threat of
Allied bombs. The man given command of Siena for the duration of the
war, Bonaguida Lucari walked barefoot and bareheaded, a halter around
his neck, to the Duomo. Leading a procession composed of all the city’s
residents, he was met by all the clergy. Lucari and the Bishop embraced,
to show the unity of church and state, then Luceri formally gave the
city and contado to the Virgin. Legend has it that a thick white cloud
descended on the battlefield, giving the Sienese cover and aiding their
attack. They inflicted a crushing defeat and massacred the forces of
their enemy, so crushing was the defeat that even today if the two
cities meet in any sporting event, the Sienese supporters are likely to
exhort their Florentine counterparts to “Remember Montaperti!”.
Siena's university, founded in 1203 and famed for its faculties of law
and medicine, is still among the most important Italian universities.
Siena rivalled Florence in the arts through the 13th and 14th centuries:
the important late medieval painter Duccio (1253–1319) was a Senese but
worked across the peninsula, and the mural of "Good Government" by
Ambrogio Lorenzetti in the Palazzo Pubblico, or town hall, is a
magnificent example of late-Medieval/early Renaissance art as well as a
representation of the utopia of urban society as conceived during that
period. Siena was devastated by the Black Plague of 1348 and never
recovered its earlier glory, losing out to Florence in inter-urban
rivalry. Siena retained its independence in Tuscany until 1557.
The picturesque city remains an important cultural centre, specially for
humanist disciplines.
Art and architecture
Siena's cathedral, the Duomo, begun in the 12th century, is one of the
great examples of Italian romanesque architecture. Its main facade was
completed in 1380. Its campanile and baptistry make a fine group. Inside
is the famous Gothic octagonal pulpit by Nicola Pisano (1266–1268)
supported on lions, and the labyrinth inlaid in the flooring, traversed
by penitents on their knees. Beneath the Duomo, in the baptistry is the
marvelous baptismal font with bas-reliefs by Donatello, Ghiberti, Jacopo
della Quercia and other 15th-century sculptors. The Museo dell'Opera del
Duomo contains Duccio's famous Maestà (1308–1311) and various other
works by Sienese masters. More Sienese paintings are to be found in the
Pinacoteca.
The shell-shaped Piazza del Campo, the town square, which houses the
Palazzo Pubblico and the Torre del Mangia, is another architectural
treasure, and is famous for hosting the Palio. The Palazzo Pubblico,
itself a great work of architecture, houses yet another important art
museum. Included within the museum is Ambrogio Lorenzetti's series of
frescos on the good government and the results of good and bad
government.
On the Piazza Salimbeni is the Palazzo Salimbeni, a notable building and
also the medieval headquarters of Monte dei Paschi di Siena, one of the
oldest banks in continuous existence and a major player in the Sienese
economy.
Housed in the beautiful Gothic Palazzo Chigi on Via di Città is the
Accademia Musicale Chigiana, Siena's conservatory of music. The Medicean
Fortress houses the Enoteca Italiana and the Siena Jazz School, with
courses and concerts all the year long and a major festival during the
International Siena Jazz Masterclasses. Over two weeks more than 30
concerts and jam sessions are held in the two major town squares, on the
terrace in front of the Enoteca, in the gardens of the Contrade clubs,
and in many historical towns and villages of the Siena province. Siena
is also home of Sessione Senese per la Musica è l'arte (SSMA), a summer
music program for American and Italian students and musicians, which is
not affiliated with any conservatories in Siena or Italy, but can be a
fun musical summer experience, despite its somewhat unclear advertising.
The football club A.C. Siena, currently of Serie A, play their games at
the Stadio Artemio Franchi.
Palio di Siena
The Palio di Siena (known locally as the Palio delle contrade), the most
famous palio in Italy, is a horse race held twice each year on July 2
and August 16 in Siena, in which the horse and rider represent one of
the seventeen contrade, or city wards. A magnificent pageant precedes
the race, which attracts visitors and spectators from around the world.
Both horse and rider are dressed in the colours and arms of the
contrade: Aquila (Eagle), Bruco (Caterpillar), Chiocciola (Snail),
Civetta (Owl), Drago (Dragon), Giraffa (Giraffe), Istrice (Porcupine),
Leocorno (Unicorn), Lupa (She-Wolf), Nicchio (Shell), Oca (Goose), Onda
(Wave), Pantera (Panther), Selva (Forest), Tartuca (Tortoise), Torre
(Tower) and Valdimontone (Ram).
History
Any connection with the sacred games of the ancient Romans being
obscured by time, the earliest known antecedents of the race are
medieval. The town's central piazza was the site of public games,
largely combative: pugna, a sort of many-sided boxing match or brawl;
jousting; and in the 16th century, bullfights. Public races organized by
the contrade were popular from the 14th century on; called palii alla
lunga, they were run across the whole city.
When the Grand Duke of Tuscany outlawed bullfighting in 1590, the
contrade took to organising races in the Piazza del Campo. The first
such races were on buffalo-back and called bufalate; asinate, races on
donkey-back, later took their place, while horse-racing continued
elsewhere. The first modern Palio (called palio alla tonda to
distinguish it from the earlier palii alla lunga) took place around
1650. At first, one race was held each year, on July 2; a second, on
August 16, was added later.
The race today
The first race (Palio di Provenzano) is held on July 2, which is both
the Feast of the Visitation and the date of a local festival in honour
of the Madonna of Provenzano (a painting once owned by the Sienese
leader Provenzano Salvani, which was supposed to have miraculous
curative power). The second race is held on August 16 (Palio
dell'Assunta), the day after the Feast of the Assumption, and is
likewise dedicated to the Virgin Mary. After exceptional events (e.g.
the Apollo 11 moon landing) and on important anniversaries (e.g. the
centennial of the Unification of Italy), the Sienese community may
decide to hold a third Palio between May and September.
The field consists of ten horses, which means that only ten of the city
wards can take part in the Palio on any occasion. The seven wards which
did not take part in the previous place are automatically included;
three more are chosen randomly. The fantini (jockeys) are hired, like
condottieri perhaps, from outside the city. Three days before the race,
private owners offer the pick of their stables, from which
representatives of the participating contrade choose ten of
approximately equal quality. A lottery then determines which horse will
run for each contrada. Six trial races are run, the first on the evening
of the horse selection and the last on the morning before the Palio. The
devout residents of each contrade invoke the sacred aid of their patron
saint on their horse and jockey. The worldly improve their odds with
more profane methods, chiefly bribery and doping. The sensible simply
keep a close watch on their stable and their rider.
The race is usually preceded by a spectacular pageant, which includes
(among many others) Alfieri, flag-wavers, in medieval costumes. Just
before the race begins, a squad of carabinieri on horseback, wielding
swords, demonstrate a mounted charge around the track. Spectators arrive
early in the morning, eventually filling the centre of the town square,
inside the track, to capacity; the local police seal the entrances once
the festivities begin in earnest. Seats ranging from simple bleachers to
elaborate box seats may be had for a price, but sell out long before the
day of the race. The landlords of buildings overlooking the piazza
sometimes stipulate that tenants must be absent on the day of the Palio,
in order to rent the space to spectators.
The race itself runs thrice round the Piazza del Campo, the outer course
of which is covered with several inches of dirt and the corners of which
are protected with padded crash barriers for the occasion. The jockeys
ride the horses bareback from the starting line, where there is only
room for nine horses. The tenth, the rincorsa, stands behind those nine.
At sunset, as the bells toll atop the Torre del Mangia, the start is
given by a local authority called Mossiere, who has to wait for all the
horses to be in the correct position. When this moment is (with great
difficulty) achieved, he activates a mechanism that instantly removes
the canapo, the starting cord. The detonation of an explosive charge
echoes across the piazza, signaling to the thousands of onlookers that
the race has begun.
On the dangerous steeply-canted track, on which several horses have
died, the riders are allowed to use their whips not only for their own
horse, but also for disturbing other horses and riders. The winner is
the first horse to cross the finish line with its head ornaments intact
— the rider does not necessarily need to finish, and often does not.
The winner is awarded a banner of painted silk, called palio. The
enthusiasm after the victory, however, is so extreme that the ceremony
of attribution of the Palio is quite instantaneous, being the first
moment of a months-long celebration for the winning ward. There are
occasional outbreaks of violence between partisans of the various
contrade.
After the race, a certain curiosity might traditionally regard the
result of the bets that the inhabitants of each contrada (Contradaioli)
made about the Palio; frequently, the losers have to bear being
ridiculed by their winning opponents.
There is some danger to spectators from the sheer number of people in
attendance; but maybe more importantly, there have been complaints about
mistreatment of horses, injuries and even deaths, especially from animal
rights associations and even from some veterinarians. In the Palio held
on August 16, 2004 the horse for the contrada Bruco (caterpillar) fell
and was badly trampled as the race was not stopped, despite possible
additional safety risks for other horses. The horse died of its
injuries, raising further complaints from animal rights organizations.
In the race of August 2005 the Palio was won by the contrade of the
Torre after a gap of 45 years since their last victory.
Wikipedia.org
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